Summer of Pubs IX - Mini Road Trip

A Series Begins

So it was 6 miles again this morning with another late start and 90+ degree temperatures by the time we finished. What better way to finish my time in Colorado than a long, hot, sweaty walk followed by a mini pub crawl road trip through the northern metropolitan Denver area? Oh, and a shower in between.

Today would be the first of a series of geocaching events because caching is also a social sport so event caches are a wonderful way to encourage the community to meet and talk about their favorite hobby. Over the next few days as I made my way to a rendezvous with my friend Ivan in Seattle, I would host six such events in six different cities, covering 1800 miles on a rather indirect route to the West Coast. The first of these would be in the little northeastern municipality of Brighton, county seat of Adams County and home to exactly ONE brewpub, an innocuously named little place called Something Brewery right on the old-fashioned main drag of town. As usual, accompanying me on this journey would be my brother in brews, Kevin, who once again agreed to hurl himself in front of the beer so I could just taste and continue to chauffeur us around.

As we arrived at the doors of Something just before they opened at noon, the temperatures approaching the century mark, a strange conglomeration of people began to make themselves present. Many were adorned by odd shirts, strange buttons, carrying odd trinkets and glyph-festooned coins. Yes, the geocachers were arriving in force, some 24 in all, ready to talk caches and drink beer. The very nice brewmaster who opened the doors for us was clearly overwhelmed at the enormous number of people arriving at opening, telling us that he usually gets that many people all afternoon on a Sunday. But it didn’t matter much; he was very friendly and geocachers are a patient bunch so we took over the front of the pub and dove into our flights as they arrived, most talking about their latest finds. Sitting at the bar with Kevin and I was a geocaching “widower”, his fanatical wife being the one far more interesting in our ridiculous hobby than him. Like us, he was more interested in sampling the beers so we befriended him, the three of us splitting a huge flight of every beer they had to offer.

The first thing I should note about Something is their unique mode of experimentation, which is to introduce tea into the conditioning process to enhance fermentation and to infuse different flavors into their beers. This best comes out in two of their IPAs: the incredible Savory IPA, which uses Vanilla Bourbon Black Tea to give a robust and sweet finish, and their White Out IPA, which is wonderfully tropical, floral, and citrusy. While I have subsequently seen a few places that use tea in fermenting their brews, Something was the first I came across that used it in virtually all of their beers, some to excellent effect and others not so much (the Blackberry Wit, for example, uses blackberry tea but it’s barely noticeable). Despite a few setbacks, the beer here is overall quite strong and they received huge bonus points for giving us an impromptu tour of the facilities, despite how busy they were.

A Longmont Pilgrimage

Kevin and I parted company with the geo crowded shortly after 1:00, eager to meet with another friend, my mate Peter’s son Mark and his lovely wife Becky, who amazingly I had never met prior to this meet up. And we were converging on a beer Mecca of sorts, the headquarters and taproom for Oskar Blues in Longmont. One of the newer breeds of craft brewers who have made a mark across the country, Oskar Blues is known for their fabulous Dale’s Pale Ale- one of the best of the type I’ve had- and their equally incredible Pinner IPA, a sessionable hopfest that comes in at only 4.9%ABV, making it a fabulous quaffing beer year round. Now, a quick caveat about the tasting room; it is NOT air-conditioned, a fact that amazes me. How could anywhere on the Front Range NOT be air-conditioned, given that 90+ and 100+ days are pretty common in the summer? So I wasn’t really going into this tasting with the right attitude, I have to admit, since my sweat is not a savory mix with flights. Still, there were standout brews and knowing that Mark & Becky would lead us to another, air-conditioned tasting room after this place make the visit more tolerable.

So about the beers: despite the heat and my usual dislike of heavier beers in hotter weather, their Smidy Fingers Molasses Stout was marvelous, it’s smoky and sweet goodness balanced by a remarkable drinkability. But the real find here was a variant on the Pinner IPA, a new version infused with passionfruit that was canned and ready to distribute far and wide (hopefully to New Mexico soon!). The addition of fruit to this elixir gives it a tropical quality that balances well with the hoppy goodness and the low alcohol makes this a near perfect brew on a hot weather day.

Small & Large

After one flight, Mark & Becky suggested that we drive to the little town of Niwot, home to Bootstrap Brewery, nestled in a difficult-to-find location in the tiny town, so difficult that our GPS couldn’t even locate it, forcing us to rely on our friends to find it. Bootstrap has a ways to go to match up with the big players in the area, with many fine but unexceptional brews on tap. The notable standouts, however, are their Flagstaff Amber, a hoppy red and their Boomer’s Brown, a lighter brown ale that is quite sessionable and chocolatey. Needless to say, I was happy we came and look forward to seeing what they have to offer in the future. After all, my local was pretty mediocre for its first year and now it’s my posse’s usual haunting place for their great beer and food.

After we finished our tasting at Bootstrap, Mark & Becky had to make their way back to Longmont seeing as how they actually had to return to real life and prep for the work week ahead. Kevin and I, however, wanted to hit one more stop and the location presented itself almost immediately: Avery Brewing Company. This is one of the better of the new breeds of craft brewers that have made their mark on the international scene, distributing and bottling mainstream varietals as well as some remarkable cask-aged and wild marvels. Just recently celebrating their 23rd year, Avery was a clear and present choice, resting on the fringe of Boulder en route back to Broomfield and Kevin’s house. The headquarters is a massive affair, an enormous all-in-one facility of production, bottling, fancy restaurant, hipster tasting room w/ fabulous (and pricey) nibbles and an enormous outdoor area for trendy dog-lovers everywhere.

We tasted ten of their beers and, apart from an overwrought raspberry sour that was just a bit too much on the sour side, I universally loved their beers, 4+ stars the lot of them. That is a remarkable statement as I can't say it about any other places I went to this summer. So I present to the four most interesting, memorable, and generally incredible beers we tried here, from least alcoholic to most.

• Eremita IX, a dark wild ale aged for half a year in tequila barrels, tempering the sour and bringing out the pepperiness of the tequila like a fine Añejo. Delicious! And at only (?) 7.5%ABV, this was the least alcoholic of the barrel-aged brews we tried.
• Certatio Equestris, a bourbon barrel aged “sour” that is far more tart than sour, quite reminiscent of a mint julep, largely due to the barrel aging and the introduction of spearmint to the fermentation process. And at 8.9%ABV, this one packs a wallop.
• The weirdest beer of the my whole trip was probably their Dionysian Series #3: Erato, a beer/wine hybrid that introduces Malbec grapes into the fermentation process and finished in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels. I had tried a couple of beers like this out in Buellton in the heart of wine country back in May but this probably exceeded those in terms of complexity, with tannic qualities shining through. And this is far closer to a wine in ABV, topping out at 12.5%!

The last two beers I’ll talk about here are also some of the heaviest, each clocking in at a whopping 17.5%ABV! These are also two of the finests brews I’ve ever had, which should be tempered by the fact that they are sipping beers, exclusive $12 a 12 ounce bottle wonders that should be savored throughout the evening like a fine wine or brandy. In both cases, the flavors notably and wonderfully change as the glass temperature increases, giving them real staying power. And they genuinely pull off the high alcohol without the taster being overwhelmed by too much alcoholic fizz. That also makes them exceedingly dangerous.

• Tweak is a bourbon barrel aged, spiced coffee stout, a dessert beer that is like a glass of very fine Kentucky bourbon mated with Turkish coffee, cardamom and coffee shining through the jet black elixir. I happily plonked down 12 bucks for a 12 ounce bottle.
• Callipygian, named appropriately for a well-formed backside, is as close to sex as you’ll ever find in a glass, a candy-in-the-glass wonder of cocoa, vanilla bean, bourbon, and coffee. This is a slow drinking wonder and one of the first beers I’ve ever had.

It pleases me tremendously that I ended my Colorado adventure at this remarkable place and I think Kevin was too, although he was a too tipsy to reveal too much other than giddy laughter.

Parting Shots

As I reflect on my time in Colorado, I want to acknowledge and give thanks to Carl, my gracious host, who tolerated by beer & geocaching obsessions and forced me to work some of those sudsy calories every morning. Kevin was also a fabulous companion as he has been for the 30 years I've known him. And I should also acknowledge my fabulous host Morland in Colorado Springs, who showed me the "shady" side of the Springs, which I enjoyed as much as any brewpub. Finally, I want to thank the fabulous Denise and Roger; sibs of extraordinary awesomeness. Not only did they roam far and wide to try Springs beers, they also helped me get Guinevere fixed up and served up a right mean salmon as well. You lot are the best!

Next up, the big six days of driving occurs, 1800 miles of fun, brews, and bucket list visits. The first day: Mt. Rushmore, Rapid City, South Dakota and my first introduction to the Pokemon Go obsession. Stay tuned!

Summer in Pubs VIII - Big Choices as we Nose into the Night

Work Before Play

As I write this latest entry, I sit in a brewpub called M. Special in Goleta, CA, thousands of miles removed from my time in Colorado. Nestled amongst a flight of four brews, it is perhaps time to reflect on my process of writing about this journey. My tools are simple: I post iPad notes on Untappd, which I refer back to in order to write these entries and then I compose on my laptop. The former is a much needed tool when you're sampling hundreds of beers. And it's pretty obvious that I have gotten behind on my efforts. No wonder. Driving thousands of miles, visiting friends, making time with them a priority... all of these go into making daily blogging nigh impossible. But as I recall the latter days of my visit to Colorado, I feel compelled to discuss this process, not to make excuses for my tardiness but to give you some idea of how many miles I've clocked on this trip. No easy feat, I assure you. Which reminds me...

My route, July 1 to August 5, 2016

Did I mention that Carl is a taskmaster? July 8th it was 5 miles; July 9th it was nearly 6 and by the time we ended our treks through the backwaters of Thornton, it was topping 90 degrees.  Despite resembling a heavy metal sponge afterwards, a shopping run followed to pick up supplies for BBQing that night and apparently some binging of the show Orphan Black. I disappeared short thereafter to kill a bit of time before once again meeting up with Kevin to finish off our run of all the remaining breweries in Broomfield. This is a favorite activity of mine, driving back roads to explore unusual locations and perhaps find a geocache or two, such as the one nestled in the fallen tree below.

A geocaching lies here!

And Now the Pubs

At the risk of getting repetitive, I'll keep my discussion of the remaining three Broomfield pubs short and sweet suffice to say that Kevin once again mercifully threw himself in front of the beers and lapped up the flights that I would only sample. Naturally, I drove.

Big Choice Taproom

First on the docket today was Big Choice Brewing Company, one that had been recommended to us both the folks at Wonderland and Kokopelli. General impressions: with the state of construction in Broomfield this summer, this place was nearly impossible to access, the main roads into the area closed for construction. We finally found a back way in and discovered the locals clearly know the secret route because the place was packed! The space is small inside, with a equally small space outside near the fermentation vessels. The beer? Mostly quite good, including the fabulous Pinhead Pilsner, a perfectly fruity antidote for the 98 degree temperatures outside. Equally refreshing but very different is their fantastic Lime Gose, a beer that tastes like key lime pie crossed with a wedge of salt. I grabbed a six pack of this one. But the most unusual beer was their "unbeer", the very appropriately named Chocolate Orange Cream Ale, an incongruously light beer that tastes like those chocolate orange wedges you get a Christmas. Amazing stuff, this one. Too bad it wasn't in bottles or cans. There were a few mingers too, most notably the undrinkable Poblano Stout (did I mention that I largely loathe chile beers?) but overall, the quality is high here and the craziest aspects of experimentation are left on the sketch pad and out of the mash tuns.

Next up was Nighthawk Brewery, a retro dark, Irish pub style taproom that is also hard to get to, a trend that I was starting to think would curse all of the pubs this day. Thankfully, their beers largely made up for it, chief among them being their fabulous Anvil Slammer American Pale Ale, an earthy and complex brew with just a hint of black tea on the palate. But on a day approaching the century mark, my favorite had to be the low alcohol, big taste Randy's Candy Berliner Weisse, a tart session drink (ABV3.8%) with notes of pear, pepper, and a hint of sweetness. It's also worth mentioning that everything here was at least palatable, even their wheat beer, and that's saying something coming from a diehard IPA and dark beer fan like me.

Our final stop of the day was also one for our four legged friends, Four Noses Brewing Company, a very crowded hipster establishment that allows people to bring their canine friends right into the taproom with them. In fact, I tripped over at least one dog bowl while finding my seat at the bar. As a dog owner, I appreciate their commitment to dogs but that doesn't forgive the fact that their beers are largely mediocre, with one notable exception. In fact, at least one of the brews, the Vier Neuzen Belgian Tripel, is completely undrinkable with the only prominent taste being an off putting alcohol fizz. Sadly, this was one of my lowest rated beers on my whole trip this summer. Thank goodness that the final beer I tried here was also the best, their fabulous Ritual Rivers Cocoa Coffee Porter, a near miracle in porters in that the chocolate actually genuinely shines in this brew. Despite this final exemplary brew, I'm not sure I would return for more, given the amazing number of beers one can find in the area. And their prices were higher than any other brewery we went to in Broomfield, another strike against it.

Next up, my final day in the area, where Kevin & I do a mini road trip to Brighton, Longmont, Niwot, and Boulder and sample brews from four different breweries, including two that are prominent names in the craft beer world. Stay tuned!

A magnificent parting shot for July 9th

Summer of Pubs VII - Miles, Views, Pubs, & Curry

History & Views

This is perhaps a good time to tell you a bit more about Carl, my host for my visit to the Denver area. As already mentioned, he doesn't drink apart from a possible excess of caffeine. He is also one of the more fit people I know, usually jogging about 5-6 miles every morning. Like many of my friends, I've known him for nearly 30 years and this realization makes me feel very blessed; when I talk to newer friends, they are frequently amazed that I have managed to maintain friendships with people for so long. 

2011 Nukestock - Pumpkin Display

Bret, the Nukestock Bartender

I attribute this in no small part to our annual homecoming/family gathering/Halloween party Nukestock, which naturally takes place towards the end of October every year and has done so since 1987; of course, back then in my college days, it was a small and drunken party as college parties are wont to me. These days, the focus is more on community, games (including geocaching), Mexican food, and top shelf booze as well as length (it now runs from Thursday evening until brunch on Sunday). In other words, quality time, not quantity excess. Carl is a regular, usually showing up and leaving a day early so he can focus on time with close friends rather than the larger masses that tend to arrive on Saturday. Admittedly, these are frequently my favorite times during the whole weekend, the quieter gatherings of small groups who have known each other for decades. It's about history, something we tend to forget about in these days of immediate gratification and short attention spans. Don't get me wrong; I enjoy the big nights as well, even taking my turn behind the bar to mix some ridiculous concoctions for those crazy enough to try them, but it's the quieter groups that feed the soul.

A huge gather of geocachers for Nukestock 2015

Carl is a reminder of those quieter times and an even bigger reminder that I better start cracking at this year's invitation. Anyhow, my first full morning with Carl dawned not nearly early enough because we were slated to follow one of his usual routes for a 5+ mile walk near his home in Thornton, CO, a northern suburb of Denver just east of I-25. Not early enough because Denver is HOT in the summer and my visit this time around would be no exception, with temperatures expected to reach the high 90s. So when we set out on the trails, it was already pushing 80, which meant I would sure be a massive, bloated sack of perspiration by the time we were done. Sure enough....

Kevin wasn't available until later in the day so Carl and I agreed to drive up to Boulder, where we do some shoe shopping for him, beer sample for me, and a bit of hiking/geocaching for both of us. Turns out that Carl's shoe store was right next to Southern Sun, a gastropub and brewery that I went to last year and thoroughly enjoyed. Perfect! I took advantage of the time to sample several of their wares, which they were more than happy to pour in abundance and for FREE if you were just getting samples (the bartender was quite generous, by the way). Guilt and general appreciation meant I was going to buy at least one pint as well but as long as I was tasting and blogging about beer, I was happy to take advantage of their generosity. 

Now about Southern Sun: they only accept cash so come prepared but it's well worth it if you do. First up was their fabulous ESB, the Colorado Kind Ale, another uniquely Rocky Mountain brew with it's distinct smokey malt and slight bitter, dank finish. Both of their IPAs I tried, the Illusion Dweller and the Mountain Sun FYIPA, illustrated the best of both worlds in the hoppy beers, the former reflecting a more English style while the latter being a more fruit forward West Coast style hopfest. The standout here, and the one which I later ordered a pint of, was their remarkable Ciel Sauvage, a Belgian style wild ale which brings out hop bitterness, spice, tartness, and unbelievable balance. Much less sour than most wild ales, this one is in the top ten I tried on the entire Summer of Pubs tour, and that is truly saying something given that I tried over 200 beers by July 8th alone! 

Carl finding a geocaching

After Carl had secured his shoes and he patiently waited for me to finish my pint, we decided to do some geocaching, both in town at the local library and on the overlook roads above Boulder. The library cache was a great way to indoctrinate Carl into the fine art of caching, given it's "scavenger hunt" nature of combing through books and researching old school Dewey decimal catalogs. After we happily secured the find, we worked our way to Flagstaff Drive which meanders well above Boulder into the mountains, stopping first to do a cemetery cache, which i subject Carl to the stupidest joke every created. "hey did you know this cemetery is super famous? yeah, people are dying to get in!" Thanks for that one, Bret. The trip up Flagstaff was well worth the distraction, the spectacular views of the city below a beautiful reminder of why this area is so popular. The refrain of The Eagles admonishment that to call some place paradise is to kiss it goodbye comes to mind here.

Boulder Overlook - Flagstaff Road

Pubs & Curry

We returned from our Boulder adventure, ready to rejoin with Kevin and my friend Victoria, who would meet us at Westminster Brewing Company before we headed down for dinner at Yak & Yeti, the aforementioned Indian restaurant that also brews their own beer. Vic is a master pub crawler, coming by it honestly from her dad, my mate Peter who I walk and drink with regularly in Las Cruces. Peter is a Liverpool boy, born and bred, so the man knows his beer and curry; Vic clearly inherited his predilections, meeting her future husband at a pub in Denver and developing an expertise in local beers and ciders. So a short pub crawl and curry had to happen, a moral imperative even!

Weirdly, Westminster was almost dead... and on a Friday night! This incomprehensible lack of customers certainly wasn't because of their top quality beer. Maybe it was the strange, almost rural setting.  Maybe the stars weren't aligned properly. Who knows? In any case, it was a pleasant reprieve from the usual pack houses so we spread out and enjoyed the brews for a leisurely tasting prior to dinner. Westminster earns top marks for their relaxed atmosphere and excellent beers, starting with their fable bitter called 1066, a beer I could drink all day with its low alcohol (ABV4.7%), slight bitterness, and smokey, citrusy finish. Delish! A step up in alcohol and bitterness came in the form of their hybrid Quetzal IPA, a spicy, almost saison like IPA. They also appealed to my latest obsession, the sour, with their fantastic Veruca Sour, a tart wild ale infused with cherries to balance the sour. It was a great way to finish our visit here and a perfect aperitif before Indian.

Yak & Yeti proved to be a great finish to the day and was a strangely deja vu experience; in fact, this particular location used to be a different Indian restaurant that I went to back in the 90s when I briefly lived up here. Back then it was slightly mediocre. Not so today; their buffet was one of the best, thoughtfully divided into vegetarian and meat sides and with no shortage of options to please even the most discerning curry fan. An endless stream of naan contributed to the awesomeness. Did I mention they also brew their own beer? In fact, I sampled both their Himalayan IPA and their Chai Milk Stout, both of which shined in their own ways. The former is huge and bold, perfect for a curry. The latter, however, was even better, a super spiced black brew that resonates with burnt brownie batter. Yum!

Next up: finishing off Broomfield brewpubs. Stay tuned!